Alpine County, California

The History of Alpine County

Photos courtesy Alpine County Chamber of Commerce

Back to the Alpine County GenWeb site.

Alpine County was created from parts of Amador, El Dorado, Calaveras, Tuolumne, and Mono Counties in 1864.

Alpine County, California lies along the crest of the central Sierra Nevada, south of Lake Tahoe and north of Yosemite. Its name truly describes the area, since rugged, snow-covered peaks; high alpine meadows laced with clear mountain streams; and beautiful forests are the main geographic features. El Dorado, Amador, Calaveras, Tuolumne, and Mono Counties in California and Douglas County in Nevada border Alpine County. The main routes in Alpine County are State Highways 88, 89, and 4. Alpine County has the smallest population of all counties in California (about 1,190 people in 2004). Most of the population is concentrated around a few mountain communities: Markleeville, Woodfords, Bear Valley, and Kirkwood. Residents enjoy a rural lifestyle, with the convenience of several city areas in the neighboring counties. Markleeville is the County seat, and home to many of the county’s offices. Since Alpine County has no incorporated cities, most public services are provided by county departments and agencies.

Nowhere in this whole county will a person find a high school football game or a basketball game on a Saturday night. Nor will that person find news of a high school prom. In this county, kids don't get to eat a Whopper, hang out at a convenience store, or go to see a movie in a theater. Even if they wanted to do so, patients couldn't get their teeth professionally cleaned in this county. Alpine County has no high schools, fast food restaurants, convenience stores, or theaters. Alpine County also has no hospitals, no dentists, no resident physicians, no supermarket, no malls, no automobile service stations, and no traffic lights. Alpine County is the only county in all of California that does not have a single bank or ATM. The whole county is tied together by one road that passes over Ebbett’s Pass, elevation 8,730 feet. The pass is closed and impassable in the winter. Winters sometimes last up to six months. Those residents on the west side of the split county generally head to Calaveras County or Tuolumne County to obtain services. Those residents on the east side of the county generally head to Douglas County, Nevada to obtain services.

At 776 square miles, Alpine County ranks as the eighth smallest of California's 58 counties, but it ranks as first in state for the smallest population. Official census numbers (2004) came back as 1,190 people residing year-round in the county. However, that number is probably drastically incorrect, since locals report that least 1/3 of Alpine County’s residents don’t live there through the winter months.

Markleeville (elevation 5,500 feet; population 165) is on the west side of the pass and is the county seat. High school-aged kids attend school in the next county, which is Douglas, in the State of Nevada. In fact, people in Alpine County do most things in Nevada. Local think of Nevada as "downtown," or "down the hill." They listen to Nevada radio stations and watch “local” television shows out of Reno, Nevada. The Sacramento Bee is delivered in Alpine County, but nearly every local reads the Record Courier, which is the daily newspaper out of Minden, Nevada. Some locals fervently wish that Alpine County were part of the State of Nevada, rather than the State of California.

In 1861, Jacob Marklee homesteaded 160 acres in the town that became his namesake. He ran a road through it, set up a toll station, and collected money from the wagon trains that went through town. Wagon masters willingly paid those settlers who laid roads for them. There was at least one person, however, that was not willing to pay or was otherwise unhappy with Marklee. Marklee’s enterprise ended when someone murdered him by taking an ax to his head.

Silver mines boomed in the area 1850s, which was the cause of the county’s creation. People needed a place to file mining claims. Population peaked in Alpine County at approximately 5,000 people in the 1860s, mainly supported by mining; logging; and ranching. Though the logging industry held out longer than the silver did, the logging eventually came to a halt when politicians and environmentalists began objecting to logging practices. While there is still some ranching in the county, tourism and county government is what primarily supports the county today.

The courthouse, next to the general store, was built in 1928. The courthouse itself looks quite different from the aged, wood-framed structures that are the rest of Markleeville.

There are no sidewalks in Markleeville.

The Cutthroat Saloon, part of the Alpine Hotel, was moved to Markleeville, board by board, from some unknown place in 1886. Many of its original square nails still hold the building together.

Despite its limitations, residents of Alpine County are quite content in their relaxed rural lifestyle, even boasting about the counties lack of facilities. Today, most of the County's income is derived from visitors from the booming tourism communities of Lake Tahoe and western Nevada, who seek out the County for its rich outdoor recreation. Fishing, camping, hiking, rafting, skiing and winter snow sports all contribute to an economy dependent on tourism.

Alpine County's northern region is a land of contrasts, from the alpine peaks of the Sierra crest to the sage covered ranges of the Great Basin. Linked by historic Highway 88, the route of explorers, emigrants and gold seekers, Kirkwood and Hope Valley offer Alpine County visitors an wide selection of recreation, scenic beauty and historical points of interest.

The modern day resort community of Kirkwood came into being with the land claim in 1855 of one John Kirkwood in a serene alpine valley near the summit of the range. One of the few settlers in this untamed land, Kirkwood grazed sheep and cattle in the nearby meadows, and with the opening of the new Amador-Carson Valley Road in 1862, operated a waystation at the present day Kirkwood Inn.

In the late 1960's planning began in the valley on the newest ski resort in California, Kirkwood, which opened to the public in 1972. Along with an extensive lift and trail system, numerous custom homes and hotel and condominium units were constructed. Today, Kirkwood is home to a vibrant destination ski and summer resort, with a variety of amenities and services.

Hope Valley was probably first seen by John Fremont and Kit Carson in their mid winter trip across the Sierra in 1844, but it was members of the Mormon Battalion, returning from the Mexican War of '46-'47 who named the lovely valley in 1848.

During the massive emigration to California which began with the 1849 Gold Rush, the valley's tall grass was important, offering plentiful forage for cattle and horses for emigrants using the Carson River Route of the Emigrant Trail. From the late 19th century through the 1970's, Hope Valley continued to be used by Carson Valley ranchers for their summer pasturage.

Threatened with development in the 1980's, a coalition of Alpine County citizens and visitors successfully lobbied the State of California to purchase much of the undeveloped land in Hope Valley, forever protecting one of the largest alpine meadows in the Sierra Nevada for future public use.

During the winter months, Hope Valley is a popular cross-country ski and snowmobile area, while fishing, hiking, camping and cycling are popular activities through the rest of the year. The valley is also well known for its Fall colors, with large groves of Quaking Aspen trees.

The Bear Valley and Lake Alpine region of Alpine County has a rich history, and today hosts thousands of guests, many who take part in the varied recreational activities available throughout the year.

This area was originally named Grizzly Bear Valley by explorer Jedediah Smith, who traveled up the Stanislaus River drainage on his journey across the Sierra Nevada in 1827 following the route of today's Highway 4. In 1850, the route was traced by Major John Ebbett's, who led a company of miners across this route. The Major's death in 1854 resulted in the naming of the pass in his honor. A toll road, known locally as the Big Trees Road, operated from 1866 to 1911, while today, the highway is one of Alpine County's state scenic highways.

Development of the Bear Valley Village and nearby ski area began in the early 1960's. Located on the site of Blood's Toll Station, homesteaded by Harvey Blood a hundred years earlier, development began with the purchase of 480 acres in 1952 by the Orvis family, prominent San Joaquin Valley ranchers. In 1955, 20 acres on the north side of the valley were subdivided, marking the beginning of today's Bear Valley community.

The Bear Valley Mountain Resort, originally named Mt. Reba, opened in December 1967, while the construction of homes, condominiums, and commercial facilities began about the same time. Nearby Lake Alpine, a manmade reservoir, offers a rustic lodge, cabins, restaurant and store, as well as a large concentration of camping facilities.

Today, Bear Valley is a recreational paradise, offering a multitude of summer and winter sports, and is close to foothill golf courses and the Calaveras Big Trees State Park. The community is also home to the oldest cultural event in Alpine County, the Bear Valley Music Festival, held every August. 

Many signs remain of Alpine County's colorful past. From the ruined foundations at Silver Mountain, to the sagging head frames of long-abandoned mines, to the wagon ruts of the Emigrant Road, Alpine County is a living reminder of the ever-persistent western frontier.

Situated on a hill overlooking Markleeville, the Alpine County Museum Complex provides a look into the rich historical past of Alpine County. 

Featuring the County's original Log Jail and 1882 Webster Schoolhouse, the Museum includes exhibits on the County's Native American inhabitants, mining and lumber eras, and early pioneer families. 

Supported by the efforts of the Alpine County Historical Society and Alpine County, the Museum also displays many 19th century tools, wagons and mining equipment on the grounds.

Prominent is a four stamp mill used in one of Alpine County's mines. 

The Museum also offers a variety of special events and activities through the summer, including the Pioneer Families Weekend, which brings together many of the descendants of the County's earliest families. 

1882 Webster School House

This page meets ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) standards.

Elizabeth E. Bullard-Watson

Alpine County, California GenWeb Project Coordinator

This page was last modified on July 17, 2006.

Contact Elizabeth Watson:

In order to prevent spamming enabled by eMail harvesting bots, eMail links are not displayed on this site. If you cannot see the eMail address image on this page, please mail correspondence to:

Elizabeth E. Bullard-Watson

PO Box 114

Taylorsville, CA 95983-0114.

The content of this site is a collective work that may contain some private contributions. Said private contributions are so-noted and copyright of those private contributions belongs to the original author. All other textual and photographic content on this site has been donated to the California GenWeb Project by Elizabeth E. Bullard-Watson and is wholly owned by the California GenWeb Project for as long as said project remains active. All such content may not be reproduced in any form without prior written consent of the California GenWeb Project. All rights reserved.